From: "Steve Bamford ARC" To: "ayshapiro2" References: <001201c4834a$a93ecbe0$0400a8c0@attbi.com> Subject: Re: 1/144 Minicraft Tu-22M3 Backfire Part 2 Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 22:21:40 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003B_01C4A4E0.61228BA0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Unsent: 1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1409 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C4A4E0.61228BA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Dmitriy, I just wanted to let you know your article went on ARC today. Thanks = for sending it in. =20 Steve Bamford Aircraft Resource Center http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com =20 Live like there is no tomorrow; Love like you've never been hurt. Work like you don't need the money. Dance like nobody's watching. Sing like nobody's listening. Live like it's Heaven on Earth. =20 ---- Original Message -----=20 From: ayshapiro2=20 To: steve@s102164210.onlinehome.us=20 Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 9:36 PM Subject: 1/144 Minicraft Tu-22M3 Backfire Part 2 Hey Steve, =20 This is part 2 of my article.=20 Thanks, Dmitriy 1/144 Minicraft Tu-22M3 Backfire Part 2=20 by Dmitriy Shapiro -------------------- Steve Bamford will insert full sized version of photo 01.jpg = here=20 =20 Markings: As far as I know, The Tu-22M3 is used only by the Russian Air = Force, Ukrainian Air Force, and Indian Air Force. I couldn't find any = decals for the Indian or Ukrainian Air Force, and I do not know how to = make decals, so I stuck with the ones I had. Theses were pretty simple, = with only 6 beautifully make Russian stars. Before putting on the = decals, I gave the whole model a coat of Future so there would be a = gloss coat for the decals. When that was dry, I applied the decals, and = then put SolvaSent on each one to seal it in. It was kind of tricky to = apply the decals because the decal guide didn't have pictures that were = clear enough. I'm glad I had some reference pics for this. The model was = given another coat of Future and I let it dry for 2 days. Click on images below to see larger images =20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 03.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 03.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 04.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 04.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 05.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 05.jpg=20 =20 Weathering: This was my first project where I tried weathering. I didn't do = weathering before because I did not have the products needed, and was = too lazy to go buy some. I finally decided to weather this bird because = after all of the reference pictures, I just could not leave it clean. I = took my bike and rode down to Michael's and got myself some Conte Paris = Crayon Pastel Pencils. There are two pencils in a package, and they cost = only about 3 dollars. The tip of the pencil was enough for the Tu-22M, = so it will last you a long time. I used a water bottle cap for mixing = the solution. I used a hobby knife to make the chalk pastel powder. All = of this went into the cap until I had a desired amount. A drop of water = was then added. I mixed the powder and water, and then added a drop of = dish soap to finish off the solution. I mixed everything for about 20 = seconds until I got the desired solution. I then took a medium sized = brush and carelessly brushed the solution onto all of the panel lines = and parts that need detail. One way to make sure the mix goes into the = panel lines is to brush the solution across the panel line, not parallel = to it. I let this dry overnight so it would settle into the panel lines. = The next day, all of the black areas were still wet, and this is = how its supposed to be. I started out by taking a little bowl an filling = it with water. I also had 3 napkins, scissors, and some newspaper. What = I did first was take the corner of the napkin and fold it up so I have a = thin area. I dipped this part into the water and let go right away. = Then, I pushed it onto the newspaper so all of the water would come out. = What you want is a damp piece of napkin, not a wet one. I took this = piece and started taking off the solution making sure I don't get = anything out of the panel lines. At first, I just mixed the solution on = the whole part I was working on, and the next time I started taking off = some. I kept doing this until I was left with some dark panel lines and = some dirt on the part. When the damp piece of napkin is dirty, I just = cut it off, threw it away, and then started with a new piece below it. I = kept doing all of this until all of the panel lines looked good to me. I = still had some of the mixture in the cap that was completely dry. There = were still areas that needed more dirt, so I took the cap and added a = drop of water and a drop of soap. I mixed this up and went over the = panel lines that needed more dirt again. The same process was done until = I was satisfied. This was my first time trying this "Chalk/water/soap" = mix and I think it worked out great. I used The article in the Tools and = Tips section to do this: = http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/tnt1/001-100/TNT026_Chalk_Washes/tnt026.ht= m With all of the weathering done, I decided to put on the final coat of = Future on the model. This time, I mixed 1 part Tamiya Flat Base with 12 = part Future to give the model a satin look. I tried brushing it on for = the bottom, and found out that this takes off some of the weathering. I = decided to spray on normal Future on the top and then brush on the Satin = Future mix. After spraying it on, I had some areas where Future was = built up and a lot of the weathering areas were wiped out, and made the = aircraft cleaner. I just let this be and brushed on the Satin Future mix = when the first coat was dry. In the end, the whole model had a nice look = that was not too glossy and not too flat. =20 Steve Bamford will insert full sized version of photo 02.jpg = here=20 =20 Final Construction: The final construction was pretty easy and didn't take that long = to do. I started out with the landing gear. There was minimal detail = there, so I used some electrical wire and styrene strips to simulate the = wires and boxes on the landing gear. The landing gear was painted white = and the wires were black and silver. I drybrushed Tamiya Smoke to = weather the landing gear. The landing gear bays were also weird with = some electrical wire and was painted Tamiya Sky Grey. The wires ranged = from Red, White, Silver, and Black. The main landing gear doors had to = be cut to make them fit and be accurate. The front landing gear doors = are perfect fit. The second part was attaching the parts that hold the scratchbuilt = AS-4 missiles. This was one of the easiest parts, but you have to watch = out for the back, because if you put glue on the back part, it will = stick to the wing, and that's definitely not good. I used a lot of glue = on these parts, because there were a lot of gaps. I then attached the = AS-4 missiles using super glue. After all of the little antennas were = attached, I let the model dry overnight. Then, I gave the areas that had = new parts attached some Satin Future and let this dry for two days. Click on images below to see larger images =20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 06.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 06.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 07.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 07.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 08.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 08.jpg=20 =20 Remarks: And finally my model was done! After over a month of work, it was = completed and I was very proud. This was the first time I tried some new techniques, as it always = is with my models. This was the first time I tried scratchbuilding, = which I think turned out awesome. It was also the first time I used = super glue, and I must say it is the best way to attach really fragile = or really large parts. This was my first time using weathering, and I'm = glad I did because its the one of the easiest and best ways to make the = model look realistic. This was the first time I tried major surgery on a = model, which was fixing the whole tail and replacing a part of the wing = that was broken off. It was the first time using Tamiya Flat Base, which = turned out pretty nice. In the end, I used a lot of new techniques that = I will surely be using in the future.=20 Click on images below to see larger images =20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 09.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 09.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 10.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 10.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 11.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 11.jpg=20 =20 This model was finished in a little over a month, and I thick it = deserves all of that work. On the 16th annual IPMS Central Valley Scale = Modelers Show and contest on August 15th, 2004, this model won 2nd place = in the Junior Aircraft section. It was beat by my 757, which I think is = unfair, because personally I think the Tu-22M was much better. But hey, = I cant change it now! Dmitriy=20 Photos and text =A9 2004 by Dmitriy Shapiro ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C4A4E0.61228BA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
Hi Dmitriy,
I just wanted to let you know your article went on = ARC=20 today.  Thanks for sending it in.  
 
Steve Bamford
Aircraft Resource Center
http://www.aircraftresourc= ecenter.com
 
Live=20 like there is no tomorrow;
Love like you've never been hurt.
Work = like you=20 don't need the money.
Dance like nobody's watching.
Sing like = nobody's=20 listening.
Live like it's Heaven on Earth.
 
 
 
---- Original Message -----
From:=20 ayshapiro2
To: steve@s102164210.onlinehom= e.us=20
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 = 9:36=20 PM
Subject: 1/144 Minicraft = Tu-22M3 Backfire=20 Part 2

Hey Steve,
   
This is part 2 of my article.
 
Thanks,
Dmitriy

1/144 Minicraft=20 Tu-22M3 Backfire Part 2 

by Dmitriy Shapiro
--------------------

Steve Bamford=20 will insert full=20 sized version of photo 01.jpg = here
 

Markings:

   =20 As far as I know, The Tu-22M3 is used only by the Russian Air Force, = Ukrainian=20 Air Force, and Indian Air Force. I couldn't find any decals for the = Indian or=20 Ukrainian Air Force, and I do not know how to make decals, so I stuck = with the=20 ones I had. Theses were pretty simple, with only 6 beautifully make = Russian=20 stars. Before putting on the decals, I gave the whole model a coat of = Future=20 so there would be a gloss coat for the decals. When that was dry, I = applied=20 the decals, and then put SolvaSent on each one to seal it in. It was = kind of=20 tricky to apply the decals because the decal guide didn't have = pictures that=20 were clear enough. I'm glad I had some reference pics for this. The = model was=20 given another coat of Future and I let it dry for 2 = days.

Click on images=20 below to see larger images

Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 03.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 03.jpg=20

<= /A>

  Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 04.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 04.jpg=20

<= /A>

 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 05.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 05.jpg=20

<= /A>

Weathering:

   =20 This was my first project where I tried weathering. I didn't do = weathering=20 before because I did not have the products needed, and was too lazy to = go buy=20 some. I finally decided to weather this bird because after all of the=20 reference pictures, I just could not leave it clean. I took my bike = and rode=20 down to Michael's and got myself some Conte Paris Crayon Pastel = Pencils. There=20 are two pencils in a package, and they cost only about 3 dollars. The = tip of=20 the pencil was enough for the Tu-22M, so it will last you a long time. = I used=20 a water bottle cap for mixing the solution. I used a hobby knife to = make the=20 chalk pastel powder. All of this went into the cap until I had a = desired=20 amount. A drop of water was then added. I mixed the powder and water, = and then=20 added a drop of dish soap to finish off the solution. I mixed = everything for=20 about 20 seconds until I got the desired solution. I then took a = medium sized=20 brush and carelessly brushed the solution onto all of the panel lines = and=20 parts that need detail. One way to make sure the mix goes into = the panel=20 lines is to brush the solution across the panel line, not = parallel to it.=20 I let this dry overnight so it would settle into the panel lines.=20

    The next day, all of the black areas were = still wet,=20 and this is how its supposed to be. I started out by taking a little = bowl an=20 filling it with water. I also had 3 napkins, scissors, and some = newspaper.=20 What I did first was take the corner of the napkin and fold it up so I = have a=20 thin area. I dipped this part into the water and let go right away. = Then, I=20 pushed it onto the newspaper so all of the water would come out. What = you want=20 is a damp piece of napkin, not a wet one. I took this piece and = started taking=20 off the solution making sure I don't get anything out of the panel = lines. At=20 first, I just mixed the solution on the whole part I was working on, = and the=20 next time I started taking off some. I kept doing this until I was = left with=20 some dark panel lines and some dirt on the part. When the damp piece = of napkin=20 is dirty, I just cut it off, threw it away, and then started with a = new piece=20 below it. I kept doing all of this until all of the panel lines=20 looked good to me. I still had some of the mixture in the cap = that was=20 completely dry. There were still areas that needed more dirt, so I = took the=20 cap and added a drop of water and a drop of soap. I mixed this up and = went=20 over the panel lines that needed more dirt again. The same process was = done=20 until I was satisfied. This was my first time trying this = "Chalk/water/soap"=20 mix and I think it worked out great. I used The article in the Tools = and Tips=20 section to do this: http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/tnt1/001-100/TNT026_Chalk_Washe= s/tnt026.htm

With = all of the=20 weathering done, I decided to put on the final coat of Future on the = model.=20 This time, I mixed 1 part Tamiya Flat Base with 12 part Future to give = the=20 model a satin look. I tried brushing it on for the bottom, and found = out that=20 this takes off some of the weathering. I decided to spray on normal = Future on=20 the top and then brush on the Satin Future mix. After spraying it on, = I had=20 some areas where Future was built up and a lot of the weathering areas = were=20 wiped out, and made the aircraft cleaner. I just let this be and = brushed on=20 the Satin Future mix when the first coat was dry. In the end, the = whole model=20 had a nice look that was not too glossy and not too = flat.

 =20
Steve Bamford=20 will insert full sized version of photo 02.jpg here =
 

Final=20 Construction:

    The final=20 construction was pretty easy and didn't take that long to do. I = started out=20 with the landing gear. There was minimal detail there, so I used some=20 electrical wire and styrene strips to simulate the wires and boxes on = the=20 landing gear. The landing gear was painted white and the wires were = black and=20 silver. I drybrushed Tamiya Smoke to weather the landing gear. The = landing=20 gear bays were also weird with some electrical wire and was painted = Tamiya Sky=20 Grey. The wires ranged from Red, White, Silver, and Black. The main = landing=20 gear doors had to be cut to make them fit and be accurate. The front = landing=20 gear doors are perfect fit.

    The = second part was=20 attaching the parts that hold the scratchbuilt AS-4 missiles. This was = one of=20 the easiest parts, but you have to watch out for the back, because if = you put=20 glue on the back part, it will stick to the wing, and that's = definitely not=20 good. I used a lot of glue on these parts, because there were a lot of = gaps. I=20 then attached the AS-4 missiles using super glue. After all of the = little=20 antennas were attached, I let the model dry overnight. Then, I gave = the areas=20 that had new parts attached some Satin Future and let this dry for two = days.

Click on images=20 below to see larger images

Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 06.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 06.jpg=20

<= /A>

  Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 07.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 07.jpg=20

<= /A>

 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 08.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 08.jpg=20

<= /A> 

Remarks:

    And finally=20 my model was done! After over a month of work, it was completed and I = was very=20 proud.

    This was the=20 first time I tried some new techniques, as it always is with my = models. This=20 was the first time I tried scratchbuilding, which I think turned = out=20 awesome. It was also the first time I used super glue, and I must say=20 it is the best way to attach really fragile or really large = parts. This=20 was my first time using weathering, and I'm glad I did because = its=20 the one of the easiest and best ways to make the model look = realistic.=20 This was the first time I tried major surgery on a model, which = was=20 fixing the whole tail and replacing a part of the wing that was broken = off. It=20 was the first time using Tamiya Flat Base, which turned out pretty = nice. In=20 the end, I used a lot of new techniques that I will surely be using in = the=20 future. 

Click on images=20 below to see larger images

Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 09.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 09.jpg

<= /A>

 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version = of photo=20 10.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo will = bring up=20 the full sized version of photo 10.jpg=20

<= /A> 

 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller=20 version=20 of photo 11.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo will = bring up=20 the full sized version of photo 11.jpg=20

<= /A>

    This=20 model was finished in a little over a month, and I thick it deserves = all of=20 that work. On the 16th annual IPMS Central Valley Scale Modelers Show = and=20 contest on August 15th, 2004, this model won 2nd place in the Junior = Aircraft=20 section. It was beat by my 757, which I think is unfair, because = personally I=20 think the Tu-22M was much better. But hey, I cant change it = now!

 Dmitriy 

Photos = and text =A9 2004=20 by Dmitriy = Shapiro

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