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Hello everybody.
This is my second contribution to ARC and this time, after my previous Hunter, I
have chosen a French biplane, the SPAD 13 C1. I must admit that I’ve
always had a liking for the pioneering aviation and particularly for the WW 1
biplanes. Many years ago I purchased the Dragon kit of this SPAD 13 at my
local hobby shop leaving it for a long time over my “waiting pile of kits”.
I decided to start it when Aeromaster issued the specific decal sheet N. 48-075.
The plane that I wanted to reproduce was an early type of SPAD which had
the rounded wing tips and the early clear doped linen camouflage all over the
surfaces except for the metal panel around the engine and the cockpit.
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Compared to the
drawings and the pictures published in the Windsock Datafile 32 and in
the Squadron In Action 93, this is a really good model. Its only flaws
are a poor decal sheet and a not so good rendering of the fuselage flanks
section which should had to be slightly rounded instead of flat.
The construction started with the cockpit where I scratchbuilt a better seat
using a fine plastic mesh and a piece of plasticard, and all watches using
Reheat bezels.
The two plastic fairings on the top of the engine, which protected the V-shape
cylinders, has been replaced with a metallic mesh that I cut from an Airwaves
p/e sheet.
The most difficult job has been done on the wings. In-fact, the original ones
had the typical squared tips that characterized the later type of SPADs.
To change this shape into the rounded type it has been sufficient to cut four
new rounded tips from a sheet of plasticard, glue them to the wings filling the
gaps with the putty and then giving the correct shape and profile with delicate
sanding job.
I choose to represent ADJ
(adjutant) Jaques Roques’s SPAD with its typical crowing cockerel’s head
insignia that was the official insignia of the SPA48 of the Armee de l’Air.
I used Model Master 1709 Radome Tan enamel to reproduce the clear doped
linen surfaces and X-tracolor X-613 Tan for the fuselage metal panels.
After having sprayed a uniform coat of Gunze Clear gloss acrylic paint I placed
the decals using Microscale liquids with the aim of avoiding any silvering
effect.
A final coat of Gunze flat and gloss clear paints mixed in equal parts,
definitely fixed the decals and gave the correct shade to the camouflage. I
really enjoyed building this kit and I hope you all like it.
Gianmaria
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