From: "Steve Bamford ARC" To: "C J" References: <20040308002251.10379.qmail@web60307.mail.yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Gallery Submission - A6M2-N Rufe Part 1 of 3 Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 14:01:33 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Unsent: 1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 Hi Chip, Thanks for sending in your Rufe article. It looks fantastic. I'm catching up on a backlog of e-mails....sorry for the slow response. I'll e-mail you when your article goes on ARC. Steve Bamford Aircraft Resource Center http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com Live like there is no tomorrow; Love like you've never been hurt. Work like you don't need the money. Dance like nobody's watching. Sing like nobody's listening. Live like it's Heaven on Earth. ----- Original Message ----- From: "C J" To: Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 4:22 PM Subject: Gallery Submission - A6M2-N Rufe Part 1 of 3 > I'm sorry for sending it this way, but for some > reason, it wouldn't go through my regular mail server. > This e-mail has the text and 3 files, part 2 will > have 3 attachments with no text, and part 3 will have > 2 attachments with no text. > > Gallery Template #08 > > "1/48 Hasegawa A6M2-N Rufe" > > by "Chip Jean" > -------------------- > > Steve Bamford will insert full sized version of photo > 01.jpg here > > > This is Hasegawa's 1/48th scale A6M2-N Rufe, built > mostly out of the box, with only the addition of Model > Technologies seat belts and Aeromaster decals. This > kit is a gem and assembles very nicely, with no real > fit problems. If you build this kit, remember to put > a lot of weight into the front of the float. Keep in > mind that you're building a tail-dragger that is gonna > have to sit level on the docking trolley. Since > construction was so easy, the real challenge to this > aircraft was the finish. In my opinion, aircraft > like this Rufe, painted only in dark green and gray > need some shade variation to bring them to life, in > this case I went for a weathered look. > > Click on images below to see larger images > > Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version > of photo 03.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will > bring up the full sized version of photo 03.jpg > > Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller > version of photo 04.jpg here. Clicking on that photo > will bring up the full sized version of photo 04.jpg > > Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller > version of photo 05.jpg here. Clicking on that photo > will bring up the full sized version of photo 05.jpg > > > > After construction, I started out with pre-shading the > panel lines on the bottom with black paint followed by > an application of Tamiya JN Gray. The key to > preshading is to control the application of gray so > that it doesn't completely cover and hide the black, > but at the same time cover enough of it so the panel > lines don't look unrealistically dark. I knew > pre-shading wouldn't work well on top because of the > dark green, so I decided to post shade. I sprayed the > entire top and sides with Tamiya JN Green. I then > mixed some JN Green and white to a 9/1 ratio and > sprayed that inside some panels, and streaked it over > some others. Next, I sprayed Tamiya NATO black mixed > with a little bit of dark blue on the engine cowling. > When the paint was dry, I buffed it out with a soft, > clean rag. This serves 2 purposes; first, it gets > paint dust from spraying, or dead paint, as I call it, > off the model, making for a smoother surface and > allowing for fewer coats of gloss. Second, it helped > blend the lighter green in with the darker green so > the transition between the colors wasn't so stark. > > > Steve Bamford will insert full sized version of photo > 02.jpg here > > > I glossed the model with two coats of Future and then > applied decals. The Aeromaster meatballs, which were > printed on a separate sheet from the other markings, > would not react to any decal solvent and would not > settle into or over any surface detail, so I scrapped > them and used the kit meatballs. The rest of the > Aeromaster decals went on with no problem. I then > washed the model to get off any decal glue and solvent > residue, then applied another coat of Future to seal > on the decals. I followed this with a very thin spray > of Tamiya smoke over the panel lines. Next was a coat > of Testors Dullcoat, paint chipping done with a silver > pencil, followed by the addition of the windscreen, > canopy, engine, cowling, prop, outboard floats pitot, > and antenna. > > Click on images below to see larger images > > Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version > of photo 06.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will > bring up the full sized version of photo 06.jpg > > Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller > version of photo 07.jpg here. Clicking on that photo > will bring up the full sized version of photo 07.jpg > > Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller > version of photo 08.jpg here. Clicking on that photo > will bring up the full sized version of photo 08.jpg > > > > Photos and text © 2003 by "Chip Jean" > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! 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