From: "Steve Bamford ARC" To: "Simon Wallis" References: <000001c3c295$2b796ec0$bac8fea9@IBMA31p> Subject: Re: ARC Contribution: 1/48 Tamiya De Haviland Mosquito NF Mk.XIII Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 22:35:48 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0113_01C3E45C.C4D7B160"; type="multipart/alternative" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Unsent: 1 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0113_01C3E45C.C4D7B160 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0114_01C3E45C.C4D7B160" ------=_NextPart_001_0114_01C3E45C.C4D7B160 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Simon, Steve Bamford Aircraft Resource Center http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com =20 Live like there is no tomorrow; Love like you've never been hurt. Work like you don't need the money. Dance like nobody's watching. Sing like nobody's listening. Live like it's Heaven on Earth. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Simon Wallis=20 To: sheb@telus.net=20 Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 2:53 PM Subject: ARC Contribution: 1/48 Tamiya De Haviland Mosquito NF Mk.XIII Gallery Template #04 "1/48 Tamiya De Haviland Mosquito NF Mk.XIII"=20 by "Simon Wallis" -------------------- Steve Bamford will insert full sized version of photo 01.jpg = here=20 =20 As a patriotic Brit, the little 'Wooden Wonder' was one of my favorite = aircraft for World War 2. It had the grace, speed and endurance to be = successful at a good variety missions over Europe - reconnaissance, = bombing and night fighting. I'd initially though to do one of the well = known fighter-bomber or recon variants. While these popular subjects are = certainly more attractive, I was interested to build something a little = different and ended up doing the black/grey/green scheme of the = stub-nosed radar night fighter Mk XIII. As usual with Tamiya, the kit = was very easy to build. Eduard do a photo-etch set for the Mk.VI Mossie, = but nothing specifically for the Mk.XIII. While the kit detail is great, = there are a few parts - such as the air intakes for the Merlins would be = nicer with photo-etch detail. Click on images below to see larger images =20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 03.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 03.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 04.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 04.jpg=20 =20 On my Mossie, I tried another new (to me!) technique that I'd read = about and seen the results from on ARC: pre-shading. I airbrushed all = the panel lines, details and underside with Tamiya XF-1 matt black, = before steadily airbrushing sea grey on the upper surfaces. The grey was = airbrushed from the middle of panels towards the outside, taking care to = blend in the grey to the black panel gaps. Wow: it works! Next I laid a = raised mask (I cheated and bought the three-color camouflage mask from = Eduard) over the upper surfaces using blue tack. The blue tack raises = the mask edges 1mm or so to slightly blur the edges of the camouflage = between the grey and the dark green. Again, I took care not to down the = dark panel lines with too much green. It was a hot summer's day (Yes, I = know. a distant memory) and the blue tack caused some anxiety, as when I = raised the mask blobs of blue tack stubbornly stuck to the model. None = of the tips I'd read on using tack to raise masks warned me of this = nasty surprise! Using a bigger blob of blue tack to tease the smaller = blobs off didn't work, but I tried brushing white spirits from a paint = brush which dissolved the tack without damaging my acrylic paint scheme. = Brilliant! One great detail on the latest Tamiya kits is their clear wing tip = lights: they have a small bulb shaped indent inside which you dab a spot = of clear red or clear blue into. Clear blue is not a mistake as I = thought at first, because the starboard navigation lights have blue = tinted bulbs which only glow green when switched on. They look great on = the model. And I tried Microscale's Kristal Kleer white glue to fix the = lights and the other clear parts on this kit. Recommended - it works = great. It was easy from there: a couple of coats of Johnson's Clear, kit = decals, an oil wash and some Tamiya smoke and Tamiya matt varnish.=20 - Simon. Steve Bamford will insert full sized version of photo 02.jpg = here=20 =20 Photos and text =A9 2003 by "Simon Wallis" =20 ------=_NextPart_001_0114_01C3E45C.C4D7B160 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Simon,
 
 
Steve Bamford
Aircraft Resource Center
http://www.aircraftresourc= ecenter.com
 
Live=20 like there is no tomorrow;
Love like you've never been hurt.
Work = like you=20 don't need the money.
Dance like nobody's watching.
Sing like = nobody's=20 listening.
Live like it's Heaven on Earth.
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Simon=20 Wallis
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 = 2:53=20 PM
Subject: ARC Contribution: 1/48 = Tamiya De=20 Haviland Mosquito NF Mk.XIII

Gallery Template=20 #04

"1/48=20 Tamiya De Haviland Mosquito NF Mk.XIII" 

by "Simon=20 Wallis"
--------------------

Steve=20 Bamford will insert full sized = version of=20 photo 01.jpg = here=20

As a = patriotic=20 Brit, the little ‘Wooden Wonder’ was one of my favorite = aircraft for World War=20 2. It had the grace, speed and endurance to be successful at a good = variety=20 missions over Europe = –=20 reconnaissance, bombing and night fighting. I’d initially though = to do one of=20 the well known fighter-bomber or recon variants. While these popular = subjects=20 are certainly more attractive, I was interested to build something a = little=20 different and ended up doing the black/grey/green scheme of the = stub-nosed=20 radar night fighter Mk XIII. As usual with Tamiya, the kit was very = easy to=20 build. Eduard do a photo-etch set for the = Mk.VI Mossie, but = nothing=20 specifically for the Mk.XIII. While the = kit detail=20 is great, there are a few parts – such as the air intakes for = the Merlins would be nicer with photo-etch=20 detail.

 Steve=20 Bamford will insert a click-able = smaller=20 version of photo 03.jpg = here.  Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version=20 of photo 03.jpg=20

<= SPAN=20 style=3D"TEXT-DECORATION: none; text-underline: none">

 Steve=20 Bamford will insert a click-able = smaller=20 version of photo 04.jpg = here.  Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version=20 of photo 04.jpg=20

<= SPAN=20 style=3D"TEXT-DECORATION: none; text-underline: none">

On my = Mossie, I tried another new (to me!) technique = that I’d=20 read about and seen the results from on ARC: pre-shading. I airbrushed = all the=20 panel lines, details and underside with Tamiya XF-1 matt black, before = steadily airbrushing sea grey on the upper surfaces. The grey was = airbrushed=20 from the middle of panels towards the outside, taking care to blend in = the=20 grey to the black panel gaps. Wow: it works! Next I laid a raised mask = (I=20 cheated and bought the three-color camouflage mask from Eduard) over the upper surfaces using blue tack. = The blue=20 tack raises the mask edges 1mm or so to slightly blur the edges of the = camouflage between the grey and the dark green. Again, I took care not = to down=20 the dark panel lines with too much green. It was a hot summer’s = day (Yes, I=20 know… a distant memory) and the blue tack caused some anxiety, = as when I=20 raised the mask blobs of blue tack stubbornly stuck to the model. None = of the=20 tips I’d read on using tack to raise = masks warned me=20 of this nasty surprise! Using a bigger blob of blue tack to tease the = smaller=20 blobs off didn’t work, but I tried brushing white spirits from a = paint brush=20 which dissolved the tack without damaging my acrylic paint scheme.=20 Brilliant!

One = great detail=20 on the latest Tamiya kits is their clear wing tip lights: they have a = small=20 bulb shaped indent inside which you dab a spot of clear red or clear = blue=20 into. Clear blue is not a mistake as I thought at first, because the = starboard=20 navigation lights have blue tinted bulbs which only glow green when = switched=20 on. They look great on the model. And I tried Microscale’s Kristal Kleer white glue to fix the lights and the other = clear=20 parts on this kit. Recommended – it works = great.

It was = easy from=20 there: a couple of coats of Johnson’s Clear, kit decals, an oil = wash and some=20 Tamiya smoke and Tamiya matt varnish.

–=20 Simon.

Click on=20 images below to see larger = images

Steve=20 Bamford will insert full sized = version of=20 photo 02.jpg = here

Photos = and text =A9=20 2003 by "Simon Wallis"

 

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