From: "Steve Bamford ARC" To: "Swallows" References: <003a01c3c24d$1e5baa20$a4e222d4@oemcomputer> Subject: Re: Gallery Submission - Fabio Beato from Italy Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 00:05:34 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_023F_01C3DFB2.544533E0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Unsent: 1 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_023F_01C3DFB2.544533E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Fabio, Steve Bamford Aircraft Resource Center http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com =20 Live like there is no tomorrow; Love like you've never been hurt. Work like you don't need the money. Dance like nobody's watching. Sing like nobody's listening. Live like it's Heaven on Earth. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Swallows=20 To: sheb@telus.net=20 Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 6:18 AM Subject: Gallery Submission - Fabio Beato from Italy Gallery Template #05 REVELL 1/72 BAe HAWK T Mk1 by Fabio Beato -------------------- Steve Bamford will insert full sized version of photo 01.jpg = here=20 =20 THE KIT The Italeri Bae Hawk T Mk1 has been out for quite a long time and was = recently reissued by Revell with new decals for the Red Arrows aerobatic = team and the Swiss Air Force. The kit is common Italeri quality, so you get quite good detail, = engraved panels (albeit rather soft) and some problems during assembly. Accuracy-wise the kit has a few mistakes: the nose is pointy, the = spine near the canopy is too square and the exhaust is slightly = undersized. Since I want to build a series of Hawk models, I refrained = from correcting everything, otherwise my project would soon shift to = 'suspended' status! The exhaust is hardly noticeable, while correcting = the spine would entail remoulding the canopy too (and loosing the = detonating chord detail) so I thought I could live with it. The only = glaring mistake is the nose: I saw a few built models and you really = have to do something as it spoils completely the look of the aircraft. I = decided to first try the easy way, so I dug an old Airfix fuselage out = of my spares box and after sawing the nose I offered it to the Italeri = kit with excellent results; since I needed to repeat the fix on other = kits I worked on the part so that I could take a rubber mould and cast a = few copies in polyurethane resin. CONSTRUCTION Having resolved the accuracy problem I started construction seriously = with the cockpit which I assembled and painted according to the = instructions, leaving off only the seats which I substituted with two = Aeroclub MB mk10. Then I mated the fuselage halves and joined the resin = nose with superglue; last I added the wings and had to apply quite a lot = of filler to the joint lines, especially under the fuselage. Another = shortcoming peculiar to the Revell issue is the lack of smoke pod for = the Red Arrows variant: the instructions show you how to to cut off the = gun barrel from the ventral gun pod, but this doesn't make a smoke pod = at all! So I opened again the spares box to search for a suitable fuel = tank to start from. After much work with plasticard and filler I = obtained an accurate master and took a mould of it too. Once attached the resulting resin pod to the underside I went through = the process of puttying, sanding and priming again and again until I = reached a satisfying finish; I chose to fill the holes for the flap = hinge fairings since they are too big and would need filling later = anyway. I also removed the fuel dump pipe from the starboard rear = fuselage and replaced it later with some suitably bent and painted = copper wire. PAINTING AND MARKINGS Having thorougly washed the kit, a pair of coats of Humbrol satin = white were enough to reach a suitable canvas on which I applied two = coats of Xtracolor Red Arrows red; this is a very good paint straight = from the tin and in my opinion captures very well the right hue of red. = After a few days of drying time I removed the masking from the canopy = and started applying the decals; these are printed by Cartograf in Italy = and are of very good quality, the only problem being that the black = dotted lines on the underside 'V' don't match the position of the = wheelwells and of the flap hinge fairings, so I had to do some touch-ups = with white paint to hide them. Also, the red paint is still faintly = visible through the white decals: that's not really a defect however I = asked a second sheet to Revell's parts replacement service (which they = very kindly sent in less than two weeks) and double layered the white = stripes with really superior results! Now it's time for the last touches: I painted the undercarriage and = whellwells in light aircraft gray and attached everything with superglue = for added strenght. The kit supplied u/c doors are rather thick and = would be best replaced with scratchbuilt ones in thinner plasticard (I = didn't for lack of will, but now I regret it!). I added only now the = tailplanes since they interfered with decal application, checking for = the correct anhedral. Last I scratchbuilt all the tiny blade aerials = scattered around the fuselage center line plus the smoke pipes above the = exhaust and gave the model a final coat of Johnson's Klear with a flat = brush. No weathering this time since it would be just out of place: simply = check a few photos of the shiny real aircraft and see what I mean. Click on images below to see larger images =20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 03.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 03.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 04.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 04.jpg=20 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller version of photo = 05.jpg here. Clicking on that photo will bring up the full sized = version of photo 05.jpg=20 =20 CONCLUSIONS I gave this subject a first attempt more than twenty years ago with an = Airfix kit, when the Reds acquired their new mounts and I was little = more than a kid, but somehow it never really got beyond the painting = stage. Now, thanks to Italeri (and Revell) finally I have a good looking = Red Arrows Hawk in my collection of aerobatic planes! Many thanks are due to Mr Gary Siddall of the IPMS-UK Aerobatic Team = SIG (http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~garys/) for his assistance and = encouragement in getting the right shape of the Red Arrows smoke pod. Should anyone be interested in the resin parts I cast for this kit, = please check this website http://web.tiscali.it/aviacolor/ REFERENCES a.. ECLAT - Thirty years of brilliance=20 b.. BAE HAWK - Roy Braybrook - Osprey Publishing=20 c.. Photos from the Red Arrows website = (http://www.raf.mod.uk/reds/gallery.html)=20 =20 =20 Steve Bamford will insert full sized version of photo 02.jpg = here=20 =20 Photos and text =A9 2003 by Fabio Beato ------=_NextPart_000_023F_01C3DFB2.544533E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Fabio,
 
Steve Bamford
Aircraft Resource Center
http://www.aircraftresourc= ecenter.com
 
Live=20 like there is no tomorrow;
Love like you've never been hurt.
Work = like you=20 don't need the money.
Dance like nobody's watching.
Sing like = nobody's=20 listening.
Live like it's Heaven on Earth.
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Swallows=20
To: sheb@telus.net
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 = 6:18=20 AM
Subject: Gallery Submission - = Fabio Beato=20 from Italy

Gallery = Template=20 #05

REVELL 1/72 BAe HAWK T Mk1

by Fabio Beato
--------------------

Steve Bamford=20 will insert full=20 sized version of photo 01.jpg here =
=20

THE KIT

The Italeri Bae Hawk T Mk1 has been = out for=20 quite a long time and was recently reissued by Revell with new decals = for the=20 Red Arrows aerobatic team and the Swiss Air Force.

The kit is common Italeri quality, = so you get=20 quite good detail, engraved panels (albeit rather soft) and some = problems=20 during assembly.

Accuracy-wise the kit has a few = mistakes: the=20 nose is pointy, the spine near the canopy is too square and the = exhaust is=20 slightly undersized. Since I want to build a series of Hawk models, I=20 refrained from correcting everything, otherwise my project would soon = shift to=20 ‘suspended’ status! The exhaust is hardly noticeable, = while correcting the=20 spine would entail remoulding the canopy too (and loosing the = detonating chord=20 detail) so I thought I could live with it. The only glaring mistake is = the=20 nose: I saw a few built models and you really have to do something as = it=20 spoils completely the look of the aircraft. I decided to first try the = easy=20 way, so I dug an old Airfix fuselage out of my spares box and after = sawing the=20 nose I offered it to the Italeri kit with excellent results; since I = needed to=20 repeat the fix on other kits I worked on the part so that I could take = a=20 rubber mould and cast a few copies in polyurethane resin.

CONSTRUCTION

Having resolved the accuracy problem = I started=20 construction seriously with the cockpit which I assembled and painted=20 according to the instructions, leaving off only the seats which I = substituted=20 with two Aeroclub MB mk10. Then I mated the fuselage halves and joined = the=20 resin nose with superglue; last I added the wings and had to apply = quite a lot=20 of filler to the joint lines, especially under the fuselage. Another=20 shortcoming peculiar to the Revell issue is the lack of smoke pod for = the Red=20 Arrows variant: the instructions show you how to to cut off the gun = barrel=20 from the ventral gun pod, but this doesn’t make a smoke pod at = all! So I=20 opened again the spares box to search for a suitable fuel tank to = start from.=20 After much work with plasticard and filler I obtained an accurate = master and=20 took a mould of it too.

Once attached the resulting resin = pod to the=20 underside I went through the process of puttying, sanding and priming = again=20 and again until I reached a satisfying finish; I chose to fill the = holes for=20 the flap hinge fairings since they are too big and would need filling = later=20 anyway. I also removed the fuel dump pipe from the starboard rear = fuselage and=20 replaced it later with some suitably bent and painted copper = wire.

PAINTING AND MARKINGS

Having thorougly washed the kit, a = pair of coats=20 of Humbrol satin white were enough to reach a suitable canvas on which = I=20 applied two coats of Xtracolor Red Arrows red; this is a very good = paint=20 straight from the tin and in my opinion captures very well the right = hue of=20 red. After a few days of drying time I removed the masking from the = canopy and=20 started applying the decals; these are printed by Cartograf in Italy = and are=20 of very good quality, the only problem being that the black dotted = lines on=20 the underside ‘V’ don’t match the position of the = wheelwells and of the flap=20 hinge fairings, so I had to do some touch-ups with white paint to hide = them.=20 Also, the red paint is still faintly visible through the white decals: = that’s=20 not really a defect however I asked a second sheet to Revell’s = parts=20 replacement service (which they very kindly sent in less than two = weeks) and=20 double layered the white stripes with really superior = results!

Now it’s time for the last = touches: I painted=20 the undercarriage and whellwells in light aircraft gray and attached=20 everything with superglue for added strenght. The kit supplied u/c = doors are=20 rather thick and would be best replaced with scratchbuilt ones in = thinner=20 plasticard (I didn’t for lack of will, but now I regret it!). I = added only now=20 the tailplanes since they interfered with decal application, checking = for the=20 correct anhedral. Last I scratchbuilt all the tiny blade aerials = scattered=20 around the fuselage center line plus the smoke pipes above the exhaust = and=20 gave the model a final coat of Johnson’s Klear with a flat = brush.

No weathering this time since it = would be just=20 out of place: simply check a few photos of the shiny real aircraft and = see=20 what I mean.
=

Click on images=20 below to see larger images

Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 03.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 03.jpg=20

 Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 04.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 04.jpg=20

Steve Bamford will insert a click-able smaller = version of=20 photo 05.jpg here.  Clicking on that photo = will bring=20 up the full sized version of photo 05.jpg=20

CONCLUSIONS

I gave this subject a first attempt more than = twenty years=20 ago with an Airfix kit, when the Reds acquired their new mounts and I = was=20 little more than a kid, but somehow it never really got beyond the = painting=20 stage. Now, thanks to Italeri (and Revell) finally I have a good = looking Red=20 Arrows Hawk in my collection of aerobatic planes!

Many thanks are due to Mr Gary Siddall of the = IPMS-UK=20 Aerobatic Team SIG (http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~garys/) for his=20 assistance and encouragement in getting the right shape of the Red = Arrows=20 smoke pod.

Should anyone be interested in the resin parts I = cast for=20 this kit, please check this website http://web.tiscali.it/aviacolor= /

REFERENCES

  • ECLAT – Thirty years of brilliance=20

  • BAE HAWK – Roy Braybrook – Osprey Publishing=20

  • Photos from the Red Arrows website=20 (http://www.raf.mod.uk/reds/gallery.html)=20

 
 =20
Steve Bamford=20 will insert full sized version of photo 02.jpg here =
=20

Photos = and text =A9 2003=20 by Fabio=20 Beato

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